How to fix bent pins on the motherboard. If AMD Ryzen is a difficult component in processors, these are the pins used to connect the processor to the motherboard. It is not uncommon for the user to misplace the processor in the socket and twist the pins. If that happened, then everything would be fine. This issue will never arise if you select the best budget AM3 motherboard.
Some methods will allow us to straighten these pins again, so our processor does not go in the trash. Let’s see what they are. You may also ask what a better motherboard does in such a scenario.
By now, you already know that there are two types of anchors for processors in the motherboard socket. These anchors are named after the type of connection and are:
- PGA (Pin Grid Array): The connection between the processor and the Motherboard is located on the pin processor.
- LGA (Land Grid Array): The contact pins are located in the socket on the motherboard.
Regardless of the strengths and weaknesses of both processor docking systems, great care must be taken with both types of pins. Because they are responsible for transmitting data to and from the processor, twisting or incorrectly connecting the pins may mean that the processor is not working. True or false. You must also enable the motherboard HDMI after that.
Even so, the AMD Ryzen processor (and any PGA type processor) has some easy repairs to bend pins that you can easily do if it happens to you.
Estimate the damage.
Estimate the number of damage and twisted pins by holding the CPU by the edges and looking at straight rows of pins for abnormalities.
Hold the CPU carefully and be careful not to twist more pins with your fingers by mistake.
Check each row – from both directions – to get a better idea of where you need to work. For example, look at the pins from north to south and from east to west.
Insert the blade between two rows.
A conventional trapezoidal razor blade (as found in box cutters) fits snugly between rows of pins. The thickness of the blade corresponds to the space required between the rows.
Do not press the substrate with the blade, as this may damage the surface.
Slowly slide the blade between the two rows of pins.
If the bent pins are blocking the blade’s path, bend them gently, using the sharp corners of the blade, one at a time.
Start straightening the pins.
Once the blade can go down the entire row, angle the blade from side to side to straighten the pins in each side row.
This movement does not require much force, and should only be used to slightly bend each row of pins.
Straighten the pins in opposite directions.
Once the straightness is straight in one direction, it does not have to be straight in the other direction.
Rotate the CPU 90 and slide the blade down a row in the opposite direction.
As you push the blade along the line, mix it back and forth, straightening the pins along the way.
Pay attention to the hard pins.
If any of the pins are badly bent, you may need to use a sharp pair of pliers at an angle so that the blades can reach them when you go down the line.
If you’re really into a pinch, you can edit the pair of tweezers to have a slightly curved tip.
If you do not have tweezers in hand, you can empty the 0.5mm mechanical pencil lead and slide the blank lead onto the pin using the body of the mechanical pencil to bend the pin.
Be careful not to use too much force – the body of the pencil will give you more benefits than you think.
Repeat until the pins are mostly straight.
Repeat the last four steps until all the rows are straight.
Caution: CPU pins are extremely fragile, and although they are bad, they can be easily bent only a limited number before they break.
Lift the toe. Raise the toe arm.
On your motherboard, lift the socket locking arm around the locking clip and to its vertical position.
Join the small triangles.
Connect the corner of the CPU with the gold triangle to the corner of the motherboard socket which also contains the triangle.
Grab the CPU by its edges and align it on the socket.
Lower the CPU into the socket.
Lower the CPU into the socket, making sure that all the pins fall into their respective holes.
The pins don’t have to be perfectly straight to do this, but they do have to be close.
The CPU should fall into the socket without any pressure. Do not insert the CPU into the socket.
If the pins do not immediately find their holes, or if only one goes, remove the CPU and double-check your pins.
If installed correctly, the CPU will flush along the edges of the socket. There should be no gaps.
Close the lock tab.
Once your CPU pins are straight enough to fit into the socket, pull the locking arm down around the locking tab to close it.
Open and close the lock tab.
Repeat the socket lock / unlock process four or five more times without touching the CPU.
When the socket is locked in place, it “catches” the pins, aligns, and straightens them further.
That’s it! Close the socket locking arm and continue building your PC.
In any case, don’t be discouraged if the pin breaks when you return it to its original position. All processors usually have pins that connect to the ground. And even the redundancy that is probably planned to be used in later generations. Or they used to be and now they are not used. So the best thing to do is to reinstall the processor in the socket and see if it boots. And, in doing so, enter the BIOS and check that everything is working fine.
If everything works properly, great. It may be that when we start, we realize that the processor has features that no longer work, such as the motherboard’s dual channel. In this case, it is up to you to decide whether it is possible to replace the processor with a new one.
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